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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 12 – The Causeway Coast

Now that we are in Northern Ireland, the hearty Irish breakfast includes potato bread (first time for that and it’s really good). Leaving Londonderry, we travelled the north-eastern coast to Ballycastle which is not that far as the crow flies but it took us the entire day.

First stop of the day was just outside Londonderry to see Grianan Aileach, the sixth century ring fort. It sits high on an 800 ft hill with a 360 degree, absolutely breathtaking view of county Donegal. The main structure is a stone ringfort, once the seat of the Kingdom of Ailech and one of the royal sites of Gaelic Ireland. The wall is about 4.5 metres (15 ft) thick and 5 metres (16 ft) high. It has three terraces, which are linked by steps, and two long passages within it. We were the only ones there and were humbled by the silence of this still morning, the stunning views all around and the history of this 1500 year old gem.

Moving on, we found the Causeway Coast Highway heading east and began what would be a many-stop photo opp drive along this stunning coastline with its mountains to the south, world-class beaches, ancient castles and historical sites, quaint villages and unique topography unlike anything we had seen yet.

Highlights of the day were as follows:

Downhill Demense: a mansion ruins built in the 18th century for Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol which included the mansion, a Mussenden Temple on the edge of the sea cliffs, an icehouse and a mausoleum. Much of the building was destroyed by fire in 1851 before being rebuilt in the 1870s. It fell into disrepair after the second world war.

The town of Portrush which is seems quite affluent with its grand yachts in the harbour and stately highrise apartments.

The ruins of Dunluce Castle perched high on the edge of chalk white cliffs skirted by pristine white sand beaches.

The lovely town of Bushmills with its riverside walkways complete with salmon jumping in the river, art galleries, town tower clock and, of course, the iconic whiskey distillery. We restrained ourselved as we were on the road today. However, Monica did purchase a couple of wee drams to enjoy later.

The Giants Causeway – you read about it and sort of know what to expect but can’t really appreciate the strangeness of this place until you experience it. It was very busy here today (being a Saturday I suppose) with many bus tours arriving steadily and thousands of tourists crawling over the rocks like ants. Unexpected was the audio box you get to wear as you explore and listen to the many fascinating facts, legends and whimsical stories about this place and its people.

The ruins of Dunseverick Castle and the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (way too busy for us with a 30-minute line-up to walk the bridge…so I was happy with a photo and moved on).

The hike up to Fair Head before diner. This was something I had been looking forward to since we started planning this trip. Fair Head is a 600-foot semi-circular bluff of rock that defines the north-eastern corner of Ireland. We found the road and parked the car in a farmer’s barn yard (with permission) and hiked the 1.5 km trail up to the top. Monica was a trooper to do this with me as we greeted sheep and cows along the way. Arriving at the top one is moved at the grandeur. There are no touristy walkways, no safety handrails, nobody else except us and the view is unparalleled up and down the coast and across the sea to Scotland. Amazing.

Hungry after al that, we made our way into the town of Ballycastle and had a much better than expected meal at O’Connors Pub. Monica had the Steak and Guinness Pie and I had the Beer-battered Cod. The chips (french fries) were a meal in themselves. The Magners cider for me and Fair Head Gold beer form Mon helped it all go down. This defines “being stuffed”.

A great day on the Causeway Coast. Tomorrow we head south toward Belfast along the Antrim Coast. They say it is lovely… I can’t imagine it being any better than what we saw today.

 

 

 

 

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 11 – Letterkenny to Londonderry

Today would not be a great distance driving day but still one covering some remarkable terrain in the high north of the country. We had a wonderful full Irish breakfast at the Mountain View B&B and set out for Glenveagh National Park just 15 minutes away. Here we visited the 19th century castle/mansion on the shores of Lake Veagh. With extensive gardens and pathways, abundant wildlife (the European Robins were singing their heads off) and a backdrop of mountains, lakes, glens and woods, this castle is a classic beauty.

We stayed an hour and then moved on, winding our way north through the Derryveagh Mountain range through quiet little towns and jaw dropping scenic vistas like Ballymastaker Beach and the view across to Malin Head (Ireland’s most northerly point) until we came to Fanad Head. Here is the most beautiful lighthouse in all of Ireland, perched on the edge of a 100 foot rock gut that cuts inland for several hundred meters. You can’t take a bad photo of the Fanad Head Lighthouse. Last night (we read on google news) the northern lights were performing for those lucky enough to be there after dark. Not us though. we had to move on again to get to our accommodations in Londonderry before the sun went down.

The route from Fanad Head to Londonderry goes through Letterkenny so we stopped for 20 minutes to take in St. Eunan’s Cathedral and its magnificent glass windows. Of all the cathedrals we have visited in Ireland so far, this one is the most impressive for the sheer amount of stained glass. There are at least 30 or more windows, some of them 20 feet high including 8 by Harry Clarke (although they are not like his usual colorful and illustrated style but are more structured and grid-like). Some of the others, however, are unbelievable for the amount of work that has gone into them.

Leaving Letterkenny, we had a 30 minute drive to Londonderry and found our B&B with the help of Mon’s I-phone gps. We settled into our room quickly and then set out on foot for the downtown to see the famed “Walled City” from the 16th century British Rule. The wall encloses a 3-4 block area of the city which was the original British establishment in the 1600’s.  This is where it all started in Northern Ireland – the British strategic positioning to prevent the Spanish from invading through Ireland, the inequity of how the Irish were treated, the resistance, the “Troubles” and ultimately the civil rights movement. Walking to it, we passed by several revolution murals painted on the sides of buildings and anti-British graffiti on the wall itself. Although Londonderry is a bustling and vibrant city, the section we walked through to get to “the wall” is dingy by comparison to other cities in Ireland. It has an industrial look and smell. Litter lines the street gutters. Homes are rather drab in color. However, inside the walled section is totally different. British influences are evident in the well maintained streets and opulent buildings and statues. Such a contrast from inside to the outside. Such fascinating history and you can feel it as you walk through it. We’ll learn more about it later in Belfast, I’m sure.

p.s. we saw one more cathedral – St. Eugene’s and it is just a breathtaking at St. Eunan’s Letterkenny. There was a young lady practicing her solo and the acoustics are phenomenal. Here is a 20 second clip.

 

 

 

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 10 – Sligo to Letterkenny

This is Thursday (we think) and the morning was chilly and started out foggy. Monica really wanted to visit the Yeats Memorial Museum but it didn’t open unto 10am so we filled in the time staring with a short breakfast at the Lilly and Lolly Café also in the same building (they were the names of Yeats’ sisters). A roaring fire in the fireplace welcomed us and the scones were piping hot right out of the oven. On the walls of the café were inscriptions of some of Yeats’ best known poetry. It really set the mood… and today is National Poetry Day (thanks Melissa for letting Monica know that – how ironic).

After breakfast we strolled through the city admiring interesting architecture, iconic sculptures, the 11th century Sligo Abbey, the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception and St. John’s Cathedral until it was 10 o’clock and the museum opened. We enjoyed a very interesting video of Yeats’ public life (didn’t know he was so influential in Irish politics). Sligo and surrounding area is very proud and dedicated to everything Yeats. He is arguably one of the greatest poets of the 20th century.

Leaving Sligo, we travelled north to the town of Drumcliff to visit Yeat’s gravesite passing by the infamous Ben Bulben mountain (which Yeats wrote about) and which unfortunately was mostly covered in clouds today. The sun was trying to burn through but we had a long day ahead of us and couldn’t wait for the perfect photo. We settled for less and moved on.

Next stop was at the Beleek Pottery factory in the town of Beleek which is just over the border into Northern Ireland. Fascinating museum and gift shop…some of the pieces valued in the thousands of dollars. Monica’s shopping was more modest but she was delighted, nevertheless, with her selections. Leaving there we travelled north to Donegal which is reputedly the capital of woolens and tweeds made from Aran Island wool and Monica had her heart set on a new sweater. As she shopped, I enjoyed the city sights including Donegal Castle and the Cathedral with its round tower. The sun was out in full force and the early afternoon was quite warm (not a day to wear a wool sweater). Purchases made, happy Monica.

Carrying on, we drove west to the coast on some of the most harrowing narrow and twisty roads yet, dodging sheep and squeezing around tight turns. There we saw the seaside cliffs of Slieve League which may not be as well known as the Cliffs of Moher but are equally as impressive… perhaps even more so since they tower 1900 feet above sea level, almost three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher. The late afternoon sun was peeking in and out of the clouds casting beautiful shadows on the cliffs. So stunning and grand they are… all you can do is stand there and stare and feel very very small.

As the afternoon was getting on, we travelled north east through the Blue Stack Mountains (oh my goodness) toward Letterkenny and arrived just before dusk at the Mountain View B&B. This private home is incredible (stained glass throughout) and the hostess very welcoming and as the name suggests, it’s in the mountains. We had our own private sitting room with tea beside the fireplace where I’m blogging this right now. It was a great day filled with every good emotion. We’ll see if tomorrow can compare.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 9 Galway to Sligo

We fueled up with a hearty breakfast at the Inishmore B&B in Galway and set out on the road north with final destination Sligo. There would be 8 major stops along the way, starting with the magnificent Ashford Castle in Cong. This quiet little village is also the setting for John Wayne’s movie “The Quiet Man” with Maureen O’Hara. There’s a statue and a museum there as tribute. Also the ruins of the 11th century Cong Abbey with its beautiful gothic archways and high crosses. But we really came to see the castle which was built in the 1200’s and was also once owned by the Guinness family. So grand and royal…and no crowds of tourists in October.

Leaving Cong, we made our way to three nearby towns all within 15 minutes of each other specifically to visit the churches and see the Harry Clarke stained glass windows in Kilmaine (a triple window of ‘The Adoration of the Magi’), Roundfort (a 7-panel window of ‘The Ascension’) and Ballinrobe (8 double windows of various saints). As I’ve said before, photos cannot do them justice… but I tried anyway. I literally took dozens of shots to enjoy later…but to spare you here, I’ve included only two pics from each church…a full window shot and a zoomed in detail shot. The colors! The details!! The importance of his work in the world of stained glass cannot be overstated!!!

Carrying on to the town of Westport, we took a side trip to see the National Famine Monument in the village or Murrisk, commemorating the Great Famine of the 1840s. The sculpture is a bronze ship, with skeletal figures symbolising the many emigrants from the Irish famine who died in the appalling conditions aboard the “coffin ships” on which they left Ireland.

We continued into Westport for lunch and to visit St. Mary’s Cathedral to enjoy the stained glass (not Harry Clark but still really beautiful) and then headed north again for one more stained glass stop in the town of Newport…this time to see a tri-panel Harry Clarke windows at St. Patrick’s Cathedral called ‘The Last Judgement’… hauntingly disturbing with its references to Heaven and Hell. I’ve seen so much of his work in the past week and I still get overwhelmed every time.

Leaving Newport, we continued north through the Nephrin Mountains to Downpatrick Head, a stunning expanse of sheer seaside cliffs on the edge of sheep pasture only a 5 minute hike from the parking lot. We were the only ones there and the wind was whipping the waves into huge surfing curls. Monica was too nervous to get close to the 150 ft. drop off and I wasn’t much braver…but I did get close enough to shoot the “sea stack”, a multi-layered tower of rock just off the shore that has been eroded for centuries. Really impressive!

The last leg of the day’s journey was along the coastline toward Sligo passing though quaint villages including Killala where one finds a 12th century round tower complete with conical cap . Occasional rain showers and intermittent sunshine meant rainbows and we were lucky enough to capture one. It was nearly dark when we arrived at Sligo and found the Glass Hotel. Dinner was a bottle of wine and some peanuts and a relaxing night in our room uploading photos and reminiscing the day’s events. Tomorrow we will explore Sligo and then continue north again.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 8 – The Burren and Galway

It rained all night but the morning broke bright and sunny – for a while at least. We had a hearty breakfast at our B&B and then set off to explore The Burren, Ireland’s mid-west coast rocky mountain region. The landscape here is very strange – almost lunar for lack of better description- extremely rocky and sculpted by ancient glaciers. Rock farming/property walls built hundreds of years ago criss-cross the hills in every direction. Limestone is the main ingredient here and although there isn’t much top soil, what little grass does grow is rich and replenishes quickly, making for good cattle raising.

Our first stop was at the 6000 year old Poulnabrone burial tomb where 33 bodies have been excavated. The slabs of rock that cover the tomb weigh many tons, leaving us to wonder how ancient people erected the structure. Next we stopped for a shot of the Leamaneh Castle ruins (unique design for Ireland with the stone window grids built into the design) and then continued on to the village of Kilfenora to see the 11th century cathedral ruins and some of the oldest high crosses in Ireland. Also, we couldn’t resist stepping into the modern day catholic church beside the ruins to see the stained glass windows.

Next we drove up into the high grounds to see another burial tomb, this one a wedge design. A short stroll beyond this tomb and we came to a 360 degree vista of the burren. Absolutely incredible to see the glacier-sculpted mountain tops that look like giant cow patties with diminishing circles going up the slopes (see the photos as this description really doesn’t do it much justice).

Carrying on, we came to the very beautiful Corcomroe Abbey ruins and then to the Burren perfumery where the employees make scented perfume and soaps from the naturally growing alpine flowers. Really nice!

Time to leave The Burren and head north to Galway. En route we passed by Dunguaire Castle which is the most photographed castle in Ireland. Unfortunately, it was closed today (possibly for the season??) but we got the iconic photo anyway. It was built in 1520 by the O’Hynes clan on the picturesque shores of Galway Bay.

Then into Galway to find our B&B (Inishmore House) in the west end. If not for the gps in Mon’s cell phone, we would never have arrived. The proprietor (Marie) is really down to earth and accommodating and gave us a walking map for downtown Galway. Best surprise was the stained glass window in our room!!! (Happy face). We settled in, did a bit of blog prep work and then headed downtown. The central city core is pedestrians only which made for excellent strolling and photo taking. We also had time to discovery of a couple of cathedrals with gorgeous stained glass windows. For dinner, we chose the Dail Bar restaurant. Great food, great atmosphere, great city. Tomorrow we head north to discover more wonders of Ireland.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 7 Dingle Peninsula to Doolin

Today held a highlight for me on this trip so far, in the town of Dingle.

First, we were up early and on the road to explore the Dingle Peninsula. With very little traffic at 7:00 am and barely daylight, we had the narrow roads to ourselves and we wound our way along the peninsula to the tip called Slea Head. Along the way we stopped to photograph Inch Beach (3 kms of fine white sand) and then came to a  2500 year old historic site, Dumbeg Fort on the peninsula’s southern coastline. Donkeys greeted us as we strolled down the lane to the site. We were astounded at the ruggedness of this coast and the endurance ancient people would have had to exist here.

Carrying on, we came to Slea head at the tip of the peninsula. Looking out across the ocean, I could sense New Brunswick 3000 miles to the West. What a beautifully dangerous place, with jagged cliffs, pounding surf and incessant winds that take your breath away. Absolutely stunning in its remoteness although hundreds of thousands of tourists come here every year to experience these feelings.

We continued around the peninsula passing the occasional village or simple gathering of homes, marvelling at the breathtaking ruggedness of the hills and coast and arrived back at the town of Dingle by 10:00 for a tour of the Diseart Convent. We were greeted by elderly Father Fiannachta (what a memory he has) and proceeded to tour this ancient convent with its many treasures including 6 double windows by Harry Clarke. Photos cannot convey the depth of these windows… the reds pop out and the blues recede giving the glass panels a 3-D richness that the camera cannot pick up – only the human eye can see it. Absolutely spell binding. Add to that, the recorded audio commentary describing each stained glass scene as you move around the chapel from window to window. In addition to the Harry Clarke’s, there are other stained glass panel of equal importance and beauty, plus painted murals by American artist Eleanor Yates. So absolutely amazing. Although I was well-researched and knew what to expect, this place totally blew me away. If you ever come to Ireland, try to get here to see it.

We hated to leave Dingle, but the north was calling and time was ticking…so off we went across Connor’s Pass (OMG – hold on tight through the twisty winding narrow road and watch out for sheep – up, up, up and over then down, down, down and… made it!

We took the ferry across the Shannon River and soon arrived at the Cliffs of Moher – Ireland’s most famous tourist destination. These cliffs are 700 feet high and stacked along the coastline like dominoes (700 ft dominoes). Oohs and Ahhhs and selfies galore… the seas were flat calm and the cliffs were reflecting on the seas. So massive, so beautiful, so deadly. A couple of weeks ago, a section of the cliffs collapsed under heavy rains! But today it was absolutely lovely.

Final destination for today was the town of Doolin just 10 minutes past the cliffs. We found our B&B and were greeted by the proprietor, Sean O’Connor (eccentric and very interesting fellow). We chatted as he lead us upstairs to our room, opened the door and there, out our window, was a spectacular and unexpected view of the Cliffs of Moher… how lucky are we! How excellent is this “Doll’s House B&B”. Sean recommended a local pub for dinner (Fitzpatrick’s) and we enjoyed local seafood (chowder for Mon and crab claws for me). A light rain was falling as we strolled back to our hotel, the first we have had since we arrived, and it cast a shimmering glow on the streets as live pub music wafted through the night air. Should be good for sleeping tonight.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 6 – Ring of Kerry

Today (Sunday) was the day we were supposed to take the boat tour out to the Skellig Michael 8th century monastery. We were up early and not optimistic when we saw the wind and dark clouds. Off we went to Portmagee (a 30 minute drive from Waterville) where we called the tour boat captain am who relayed his concerns about the weather. Not wanting to die on the Atlantic Ocean today, we cancelled the trip and, instead, made plans for a relaxing and VERY enjoyable car ride around the Ring of Kerry…. starting with a fantastic breakfast in Portmagee (when was the last time you has fresh grilled kippers with capers for breakfast?)

Words and photos simply cannot convey the majesty of this place. We took several little dead end roads that lead to the most surprising and ancient discoveries… such as McCarthy’s Castle ruins, Ballyskellig Abbey, the Cliffs of Kerry, Valentia Island Lighthouse, Ballycarberry Castle ruins, Kells and Rossbay Beaches and made our way by late afternoon to the lovliest little B&B in Castlemaine.

We checked in, had a glass of wine and wandered over the street to Knightley’s Pub for dinner – fantastic seafood and shepherd’s pie. Good night Ring of Kerry – you were a wonderful day.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 5 Cork to Waterville

Just before leaving Cork this morning, Monica and I slipped right across the street to visit the Honan Chapel on the grounds of the University College of Cork. Here one finds 10 brilliant Harry Clarke stained glass windows. All the windows are of various saints and one of Jesus. His work is magnificent…the colors so bold and the details so illustrated. It’s easy to see why he is considered one of the world’s most famous stained glass artists. I was in a daze the whole while….Monica had to help me out and to the car.

Leaving Cork, we travelled west toward the Ring of Kerry along well maintained but VERY narrow roads. A few more white knuckle moments along the way…especially when meeting a bus. There aren’t many places to pull over and one runs the risk of scraping the mirrors along the rock walls that line the roads. Along the way, we visited a 3000 year old historical site called Drombeg Stone Circle…similar but smaller than Stonehenge in England. Very fascinating to see where ancient people carved out an existence in this rocky land.

Continuing on we went through Skibbereen (stopped for fuel and some street shots), Bantry (lovely seaside village), Kenmare (hustling busy), and then we got lost. We thought we were on the Ring of Kerry but had somehow missed the turn at Sneen (also a bustling town) and found ourselves crossing the mountains through Kilarney National Park. These roads are barely wide enough for two small cars to meet, let alone a bus…and they twist and wind so fast it’s like playing a Race Car Video Game. By the time we got turned around, my sholders were aching from the tension and then we had to drive back over the mountains again. Nevertheless, there were a couple of stop spots were we got some spectacular shots of the valley.

Finally we made it to Waterville for the night. The views along the coast are unbelievable. At one spot, we could see Skelling Michel (the island we are supposed to visit tomorrow, weather permitting). We found our inn, found a decent restaurant and found time to blog another wonderful day in Ireland.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 4 Cashel, Blarney and Cork

Since we were too late last night to see St. Canice’s Cathedral in Kilkenny, we hung around until it opened at 10:00 this morning… and we were sooo glad we did. What a beauty. Full of ancient artifacts and wonderful stained glass including a Harry Clarke. The tour guide was very gracious and the super friendly church cat accompanied us around the self-guided tour. The round tower is climbable but the morning was very foggy so I decided not.

Leaving Kilkenny, we drove through the pastel country side on meandering back roads through quaint villages toward Cashel where the 12th century castle called “Rock of Cashel” draws multitudes of tourists annually. Fortunately for us, admission today was free because of a glitch in the VISA machines (love it). We enjoyed this fantastic ruin and especially the high crosses in the cemetery. The town of Cashel itself is very colorful and the townsfolk are welcoming and helpful.

Next destination for today was Blarney Castle just outside of Cork city. After a couple of wrong turns and white knuckle moments on these very narrow roads, we made it and thoroughly enjoyed this 15th century marvel with its internal spiral stairways and secret dungeon tunnels. Being the off season, there were no crowds and no line-ups to kiss the Blarney Stone…which Monica did and I did not, thank you. The greatest surprise was the magnificent gardens surrounding the castle filled with exotic plants and trees and stunning flower gardens.

Carrying on, we arrived in Cork and found our Inn just in time for complimentary afternoon tea. Then we strolled into the city for supper, passing the incredible St. Finnbarr’s Cathedral on the way. Monica and I slipped inside for a moment hoping to see a stained glass window or two and were delighted to find a service in progress with the choir singing beautifully. Monica snuck a video on her cell phone. I wish I had time to upload and include for you in this post… so hauntingly beautiful.

We chose Italian for dinner and had fantastic pizzas at Milano’s…then strolled back to the Inn through the streets filled with music and lots of people. Cork is ancient and lovely…dreamy really.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 3 – Kildare and Kilkenny

Goodbye Dublin. Mon and I caught the early bus to the airport to rent our car for the week. Well let me tell you, it took us 45 minutes just to find our way out of the airport. We did well, considering, but nerves were shot but the time we got onto the highway to Kildare. Driving on the left in a 6-speed manual in 4 lanes of traffic and trying to interpret Irish road signs… oy vay! However, we did make it to Kildare alive (only a hour’s drive).

First stop in Kildare was St. Brigid’s Well were this 6th Irish Matron Saint would have drawn water. Very lovely monument. Then on to the Irish National Stud farm to see where many famous race horses were born and bred. We enjoyed the guided tour on this very beautiful warm and cloudless Thursday and marvelled at the gorgeous race horses. One of them, Invincible Spirit, is insured for $65 million Euros!!!

Leaving the farm, we toured into Kildare town to see St. Brigid’s Cathedral and round tower, the tallest climbable tower in Ireland. However, it had just closed yesterday for the season 😦 Nevertheless, the cathedral and grounds are spectacular… but nothing compared to what was coming next.

Leaving Kildare and only getting lost momentarily (a couple of times), we made our way to Kilkenny arriving around 4:30. Found our hotel and set out for a city walking tour. Kilkenny has winding narrow cobbled streets and many little laneways dating back to midevil times. We saw the Black Abbey and its spectacular stained glass windows (which are the windows I most wanted to see in all of Ireland). The main west window is called the Rosary Window, created in 1892, is the largest stained glass window in Ireland and represents the 15 mysteries of the Holy Rosary. You’d have to see it to really appreciate it.

Next we happened across St. Mary’s Cathedral also with stunning windows and priceless statues. There is one more cathedral in Kilkenny that we did not see today (hopefully tomorrow morning before we leave)  and that is St. Canice’s Cathedral which has a climbable tower and Harry Clarke stained glass.

Continuing on our walk, we came to Kilkenny Castle on the River Nore and got some great evening shots. Built in 1213, it is really grand and would probably be worth the tour admission – but we were hungry and ready for dinner. So, into the Kyteler’s Inn and Restaurant for fantastic food and live traditional Irish music. What a day! We are exhausted and tomorrow we say we might slow down a bit… but somehow I doubt it.

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 2 – Dublin

Up at a reasonable time and out to find breakfast. Then we grabbed the hop On Hop Off to continue our guided tour of the city. These bus tours are so worth the fee for the excellent history and comical narration from the bus driver. Dublin is fascinating with its rich past of fortune and despair. We even saw bullet holes in some of the statues from the Easter Rising of 1916. Our first Hop Off was in the south quarter where we strolled through St. Stephen Green to see the statue of James Joyce and then made our way through quaint cobble stones streets to the Marsh’s Library (1700’s) where Ireland’s notable literaries (James Joyce, Jonathan Swift and Bram Stoker of Dracula fame would have sat and read for hours).

Continuing on the bus tour we arrived at the Jameson Whiskey Distillery and thoroughly enjoyed the interesting tour ending with a fantastic tasting of three whiskeys (Irish, Scottish and American)… of course the Jameson was the best 🙂  After the distillery, we continued on the bus tour to the north quarter passing many famous landmarks along the way. What a great way to see a new city. Final destination for us was Trinity College where we strolled through the campus grounds. We had every intention of seeing the famous Book of Kells (world’s oldest known illustrated manuscript of the new testament – 7th century) but the $30 entrance fee to see just a single page for 2 minutes was a bit too steep for us…so we passed by). Instead, we carried on to Merrion Square and enjoyed the statue of Oscar Wilde – poet and dramatist – for free. We shopped our way back along Nassau Street and were surprised at the throngs of people on Grafton Street – literally thousands of folks cramming the streets of this high end shopping district.

A quick rest at the hotel and we were off again to find dinner at the Quays Restaurant (pronounced Keys). Fantastic Lamb Shank and Seafood Pasta. The evening was calm and warm and music wafted through the air as musicians performed on the street corners. We strolled around until we found the perfect quiet little café and sipped our Irish Coffees to 70’s music. Our final night in Dublin was absolutely perfect.  Tomorrow we are off to Kildare and Kilkenny for what promises to be an incredible Irish feast for the eyes.

 

 

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Ireland-Scotland 2015

Day 1 Dublin

We made it and are so happy to be here in Dublin. What a dream come true. It took 24 hours via St. Johns Nfld. We had a 6 hour lay over but since I had never been there before, I found that quite exciting. Mon and I grabbed a cab from the airport and headed for George Street for some dinner. Great food, great music.

Then we flew all night and arrived in Dublin at 7:30 Tuesday morning. Caught the Airlink bus downtown, found our hotel at 9:00 (The Arlington Hotel on the Liffey River a two minute walk to the downtown core), stashed our bags and did a quick walk about the downtown to get our bearings. Soon our hotel room was ready and we freshened up before heading out to catch the hop on, hop off bus for an afternoon tour around the city. Highlights were: St. Patrick’s Cathedral (unbelievably amazing for the history and priceless artifacts), John’s Lane Church (Harry Clarke stained glass windows) and the Guinness Storehouse where we toured the beer making process ending with a tasting on the 9th floor with an unbroken 360 degree view of the city. Dinner was at Arthur’s (as in Arthur Guinness) where I had the best shepherd’s pie made with lamb.

The weather is beautiful (so far), the sight seeing is unbelievable (the stained glass!!!), the people are wonderful and the food is amazing. After 36 hours with no sleep, we were too tired this evening to do much other that slip out for a couple of night shots and then to bed for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow will be a full day.

Here is the photo reel of the day’s highlights.

 

 

 

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Stained Glass

dreams coming true

I’ve wanted to expand nellyglass studio for awhile now so I would have more surface area to work on and so I could set up my grinder more permanently. This week I was able to do that while on vacation. With the addition of two new benches, I’ve tripled my working surface area. What a difference a little elbow room will make. Here are the before and after pics.

early 2000s: a happy little space
mid-late first decade: a happy little space. That’s the coral reef lamp in progress.
nellyglass studio 2015
nellyglass studio 2015. Imagine the possibilities (that’s really the NBCC mantra but it works for me at this moment)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m really looking forward to getting into the spirit of the glass very soon. I’ve got a project ready to go (a mermaid) but it may have to wait until after my inspirational tour of Ireland in a couple of weeks. The windows in the cathedrals are calling me and I expect to be filled with multidimensional energy when I see them. When I come home, I’ll be in the studio.

sneek peek
sneek peek

Here is the photo sequence of the expansion

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nellyglass

A productive day

Starting week two of vacation and having a blast at home. Quite different from our usual vacations lately which were all about getting away for a couple of weeks. This time it’s nice to be productive around the house for a few days. Today I kept busy building a new glass work bench (first of two). I’ll build the second one in a couple of days and finish organizing the shop. Meanwhile, Monica made green curry sauce to freeze and a double batch of pickled beets. We both agree, it feels good to make something?

After supper, we rewarded our day of labor with ice cream. Spoiled, or what? I love vacation!!!

 

Categories
Family, Friends and Food

Vacation Day – enjoyed

The day started with a rigorous exercise routine and sauna cleansing at the SJ Aquatic Center and then home to this wonderful breakfast of the brave and creative – fried eggs, pork pate and herb crusted goat cheese on gluten free toast…with skim milk. Oh, sooo goooood!!!!!

breakfast of champions - eggs, pork pate and goat cheese
exotic vacation breakfast feast

 

breakfast dwindling
breakfast dwindling

 

 

 

 

 

 

two new work tables (almost)
two new work tables (almost)

 

Morning chores included a trip to the city market, the jeweler’s to drop something off for repair and Kent’s to purchase the lumber for two new glass shop work tables (each 2’x4′). I’m looking forward to expanding my work surface area.

 

 

 

Afternoon was spent planning the glass shop floor layout and tasting assorted red wines (Smoky Bay Cab Sauv from Eastern Australia and Casa Monica Luna Rossa from Eastern Canada). We accentuated these wonderful wines with pizza Mediterranean style (gluten free for me, eh Maneau?).

Monica Pouring
Monica Pouring
the before shot
the before shot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monica pouring, again.
Monica pouring, again.

 

 

 

Left: anchovy, hot pepper, olive Right: artichoke hearts and chicken
Left: anchovy, hot pepper, olive Right: artichoke hearts and chicken

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evening progressed through several Netflix episodes of something until sleepy eyes signaled time for bed. Vacation days as these are seductively luring. I’ll take another, please.

Categories
home life Important Dates to Celebrate

Birthday on last day at work… reason enough to celebrate?

You bet it was! That has to go down to one of the funnest deck parties we’ve ever had. The weather was perfect. Ryan came home from Fredericton! Sarah and Matt and Deacon (150 lb Rottweiler) came to our house and we all kicked in for a family-only celebration on the back deck. Ryan and I waited for others to arrive under bright cloudless skies and warm sunshine excellent for spiritual healing. Arrival of Sarah and Matt signaled the official start. With the bar now open, cocktails included El Dorado Spiced rum on ice … saved from St. Martin last February. Ryan and I partook, most happily. Also gluten free munchies for me (veggie sticks) and try-to-avoid-fail munchies (ripple chips) for the kids. Sneaking snacks to Deacon was a game of trying not to get your entire hand swallowed along with the chip 🙂 What a wonderful dog. Magnificent.

Humbly, I profess I was totally spoiled and am so appreciative of the great gifts I received from everyone (thanks for the wine, Marlene 🙂 thanks for everything kids, thanks Honey…love my card).IMG_7762

Monica had master-menued a beautiful meal with grilled striploin steak, fried mushrooms and onions, baked potato, boiled corn with cilantro butter, herb butter shrimp and lots of rolls. Ever have a 150-lb Rottweiler stare at you while you’re eating your steak? knowing that if he really wanted it, there would be nothing you could do to stop him…so I bribed his loyalty with bits of everything as much as I could get away with. (is that sort of like spoiling the grandchild?)

I am so blessed to have my family surround me to wish me well for my birthday and my last day in the office. I’m on vacation for the next three weeks and then officially retired from NBCC. It has been a wonderful career at NBCC… truly. I have learned so much and done so many interesting things during my 16 years there. Now my journey of learning continues into the world of stained glass as I pursue the skills of the craft to hopefully one day become a master glass craftsman… and then we’ll see where it takes me from there. God willing, I can spend the rest of my life finding out.

Thank you Monica, Ryan, Sarah, Matt and Deacon for celebrating my day with me. I love you all…. you know that, of course.

Categories
nellyglass

Lovely Late August

The weather was perfect for company this weekend. Our good friends Maneau and Jake came to visit us in Saint John … to celebrate my birthday and enjoy the excellent Goldilocks temperature on our back deck – not too hot, not too cold. The wine flowed freely as we laughed and sang the night away (Foo Fighters/Quebec/Lightning/Danger/Survived). Great fun and equally great memories.

Next morning after breakfast, Maneau and Jake (and Stella, the golden lab princess) departed for home and Monica and I decided to go for an afternoon hike to get some exercise and strengthen the leg muscles for Ireland. Destination… Bald Mountain in Welsford… I was excited to show this natural wonder to Monica and this time, we’re doing the whole trail including Trail B = moderate and Trail C = Difficult! = absolutely stunningly beautiful. Here is the 24 hr photo reel:

Categories
home life Saint John

A Sunday Adventure in Southern NB

Monica and I decided to get out of the house and go for a wilderness hike on this very hot and humid Sunday… with a 35 degree humidex factor, we asked for it!

Destination, Walton Glen Gorge in Saint John County very near the Fundy Coast just an hour’s drive from St. Martins. Walton Glen Gorge is often referred to as NB’s Grand Canyon and sports NB’s tallest water fall at 140 feet vertical drop. This waterfall only flows during wet season and August has been hot and dry in NB so we didn’t expect to see it on this day. Nevertheless, the gorge itself is supposed to be spectacular with 300 foot vertical cliffs on either side. Since we had never been here before, we thought this hiking adventure would be good practice for our upcoming Ireland trip in 5 weeks.

Off we went toward St. Martins to find the Shepody Rd. which cuts across land through perhaps one of the last unspoiled and unsettled tracts of forested coastline along the Atlantic Coast from Nova Scotia to New Hampshire. En Route we passed through a turn of the century community called Londonderry (same as the one in Ireland). What an unexpected thrill to find St. Paul’s Anglican Church and graveyard complete with high crosses just as if we were in Ireland. How ironic. Some of the graves date back to the mid 1800’s.

Traveling on past Crawford Lake and turning south onto Little Salmon River Rd., we came to major construction where the extension work of the Fundy Parkway construed my mental map for the gorge parking spot. Lost momentarily, we backtracked to the only signage we had seen for the gorge which meant a 5 km hike was ahead of us. Very good then, off we went. Within 5 minutes, we were soaked to the skin in this 35 degree weather.

It took at least an hour to get there…passing McLeod Brook Falls on the way. Arriving at the canyon and we were rewarded with an unparalled panorama of this spectacular gorge with it’s 300 ft vertical walls. On my belly, I crept to the edge as close as I dared and stuck my camera over the edge for a snapshot. Photos just cannot do this justice. Because the weather has been so hot and dry, the main falls were not running on this day…so, we will be back…maybe next spring.

Hot and thirsty (we consumed all the water we brought withing the first 30 minutes of the hike) we started back to the car. An hour and a half later, we dragged our tired bodies into the car and cracked a cold drink (thankfully our cooler still had plenty of ice). What a day trip. We walked over 10 km and saw some of the most beautiful scenery NB has to offer. If you get a chance, you must come here and see this.

Categories
Family, Friends and Food

Sushi celebrations

Not that we need an excuse to have sushi but our niece, Ellen, turned 26 this week and so… Otanjo-bi omedetou Ellen! (Happy Birthday).

Ellen @ 26  Los Vegas Rollsumptuous inside

Categories
home life

That’s my girl!!

Bless the Saints Above, our daughter (Sarah, 27) got her driver’s license today. What a joyous celebration. A nervous but cool Monica took her to the test location uptown Saint John this morning bright and early before the scheduled 10:00 appointment. While registering our car for the road test, they discovered I had not signed the car’s registration papers. The car was REJECTED for testing. Test cancelled…sorry, young lady. You can reschedule for another time.   😦

Well, Saints Alive let me tell you someone was not happy. As it was my fault, I have to take blame. All sad and mad and depressed, they left the test location with heads hanging low…and descended on my office with car registration and pen in hand and “sign here, please”. I complied.

Shortly after they left my office, I got a text message that the test instructor called and had a cancellation for 2:30 in the afternoon, could she come then? YES!!! Thank You! What a relief. So now, nervous mother, Monica, has to drive around with recently ruffled child for 4 hours until the afternoon test. Emotional roller coaster morning. What to do? Lunch!

All ended well as Sarah took the afternoon test and passed with flying colors. Big high-5’s and hugs. Mother greatly relieved not to mention daughter. Father as cool as always and very pleased for everyone.

After work, we invited Sarah over for BBQ supper. It would be her first time driving her new car alone. Nervous mother and father waited patiently for her to arrive (me not so patient, I paced a bit with camera in hand). Finally I just happened to catch sight of her coming from the opposite direction than I was watching. I got the sequence of evening photos and am so glad I did. Congratulations Sarah!

Here is the video clip of Sarah leaving after supper. https://youtu.be/qMgr6m4cQUg